While the subject of transportation might at first seem unrelated to the people I  met while I lived Edinburgh, this turns out to be incorrect. How I got around town on a daily basis would in fact turn out to be a big part of the social life that gradually began to unfold before me.  

Edinburgh is a city where ownership of a car is not a condition of existence. You can get most anywhere by foot, and public transportation is quite good. Not only does this remove a layer of expense from one’s budget, it also significantly changes how you experience your daily world. As you walk about your neighborhood and the city at large, you routinely bump into people that you know.  Encounters like this simply do not exist for the interstate commuters of the world.  

Perhaps these factors played into how I got to know and remember the people I befriended in my neighborhood. For the vast majority of my time in Edinburgh, that neighborhood was Stockbridge.  

Stockbridge

To live in Stockbridge is to become acquainted with the unique and colorful people that inhabit its shops and streets. It reminded me of the slice of life that Paul McCartney creates in “Penny Lane”–the barber showing photographs, the banker who never wears a mackintosh, the fireman with his hourglass, and pretty nurse selling poppies. From the river of faces that I remember, here are a few neighborhood stand outs.

Peter from the local tattie shop called “Take it Away Spud.” Peter seldom lost a chance to malign the Edinburgh City Council and the business-robbing traffic wardens that scared off drivers from parking in front of his shop. (A photo of Peter and myself appears at the top of this page.)

Vincent, the consistently cheerful owner of a beauty salon on St. Stephen’s Street. Vincent seemed to know all of the “Stockarati.” I came to see him as the “Mayor of Stockbridge.” 

Andy Barbour, my wonderful pal from Vox Box Music, and John Nicholson, a detective novelist and shop habitué. All topics from pop music, to politics, to serial monogamy were on the table for discussion there.Vox Box Music was one of my geographical anchors in Stockbridge. By that I mean that it was one of the places that I returned to for psychological stability and mooring.

Cate, owner of “The Skinny Pig,” a vintage clothing store that is a vestigial reminder of Stockbridge’s bohemian past. Cate persistently called me Larry because she seemed to prefer it to my actual name. Sometimes, when she seemed to feel bad about this, she referred to me as “not Larry, Paul.” 

Alice, owner of the Stockbridge Kitchen, who taught me the finer points of making chicken noodle soup, as well as the meaning of the word “skyving.”  (A cigarette break.)

Christina, clerk at Sainsbury’s and Gaelic student who sometimes greeted me with “Ciamar a tha thu?” (Gaelic for “how are you?”)

Jonathan and Teresa Brill, who poured tea for me and took me in as a true Stockbridge resident.

Rachel Bee. Wonderful conversation partner that I met at Brill’s Tea and Jewelry. An added bonus was meeting her trusty greyhound, Barney.

Mae Douglas, owner of a lovely stationary store in Stockbridge called “The Write Stuff.” Mae and her colleagues helped me with my printing needs as well as with understanding more about Scottish life in general.

Ray Rushbrook. Talented painter and terrific guy who was unfailingly cheerful and kind.

Katherine O’Donnell. Former editor of the London Times and accomplished guitarist. Pop music enthusiast with a passion for the subject that rivals my own. A real kindred spirit and dear friend. 

John & Helen McColl. Wonderful India Street neighbors. John occasionally appeared in my door with books that permitted me to further explore the immensely enjoyable Scottish writers that I was to discover.

Lady Judith Scott Barrett and Paul Hilton. The former is one of the most charming and gracious people that Teresa and I were to meet during our stay, and the latter became my walking partner for about a year. Through use of several walking guides, we discovered what a fantastic place that Edinburgh is for setting out on foot.

Dorothy Leeming. Kind and fiercely intelligent, I came to see her as representative of India Street and the unique people that inhabited it.

Rosemary Perkins, piano teacher and longtime India Street resident. Her flat was previously Mr. Henderson’s Primary School, where Robert Louis Stevenson studied as a young lad.

Friends

Caroline MacKay, colleague of our letting agent, Kate Kelly, and one of the very first people that we met when we moved to Edinburgh. Caroline was a key advisor to us in matters of social etiquette that had to be sorted out in dealing with our affluent neighbors on India Street.

Kate Kelly, letting agent with whom we dealt for over five years. Recommended for newcomers seeking long-term accommodation.

Andy Cook and Dorothy Jackson. Two favorites who generously hosted us at their wonderful house on the Isle of Skye. Our connection with Puffin birds will always be a special one because of them.

John McCusker and Heidi Talbot. Before I came to Scotland, I never would have dreamt that I would record with these musicians that I had held in such high regard.

Adam Holmes. Adam sang backing vocals and played guitar on my recording project with John McCusker and Heidi Talbot. Adam is a rising star on the Scottish music scene, and I met him at the threshold of what I believe will be very promising musical career.

Cameron Malcolm. Cameron, who engineered, mixed, and mastered “The Riven World,” was largely responsible for its production value. Like Adam Holmes, I expect Cameron to have a very full dance card of engineering work in the future.

Adam Trettel. Augustine scholar, classical guitarist, and Johann Sebastian Bach enthusiast. I read Augustine’s “Confessions” under his tutelage.

Dalriata. Musical group that asked me to play and sing at a songwriter’s event that they hosted at the Voodoo Rooms.

Rita Deluso, British Airlines flight attendant who came to my rescue by navigating me through a tight connection between Heathrow and Gatwick during a business trip back to Orlando. Rita became a friend to Teresa and I while we lived in Edinburgh.  

David and Rosie Miller. After an unlikely meeting in Gladstone’s library in Wales, Teresa and I were able to visit to become friends with this delightful couple.

Gladstone’s Library. One of the few residential libraries in the United Kingdom. Gladstone’s permitted Teresa to study uninterruptedly on several occasions for a week at a time–a real bonus for anyone that has to write. It became a friend of sorts to us.

St. Paul’s and St. George’s Church (Ps and Gs)

A dear friend said to me recently that the two strongest things he had found in his faith were the love of Christ and the Christian life. Teresa and I were to experience both during the five years that we attended Ps and Gs. Ps & Gs turned out to be a real home for us during the entirety of our stay in Edinburgh. Its congregants are some of the most accomplished and impressive people that I have known. The Connect group that we joined at the very beginning of our arrival proved critical in helping us quickly assimilate into Scottish life.

Paul & Rosie Benham. Numero Uno. Our guardian angels that helped us through many a struggle. We will always be indebted to them for their friendship and many kindnesses.

Dave Richards, Rector, P’s & Gs. When we came to Edinburgh in the late summer of 2013, we rented a flat for a few weeks while we searched for more permanent living arrangements. When the couple that was temporarily letting their flat to us found out that Teresa was at the School of Divinity, they suggested that we might want to attend their church the next day. That church, which was about a mile from our flat, turned out to be Ps & Gs. Dave graciously welcomed us that first Sunday. When we later relocated to Stockbridge, Dave spotted me walking down the street carrying some items that needed to be moved to our new flat. He kindly offered to help us by hauling some stuff from Tollcross in his car. We have enjoyed his sharp intellect, quick wit, and ability to effectively preach the gospel.  

Libby Talbot, assistant director, Ps & Gs. Libby came to Ps & Gs during the final two years of our stay in Edinburgh. Teresa worked with her through the School of Theology, which Libby directed and at which Teresa taught. We both came to look forward to her humorous and well-constructed sermons.

Gemma Stoddard, Youth Director, Ps & Gs. My childhood best friend Gary Lloyd became critically ill early in our stay in Scotland. During one of the first services that I remember attending at Ps & Gs, I did something that had never done before. I went to the front corner of the church and asked someone to pray for me. That person was Gemma Stoddard. In a voice that was recognizably Glaswegian and full of conviction, Gemma fervently prayed that Gary would recover, and for the week that followed it appeared that he might. I will always remember and be thankful for Genna’s zealous support at a time when I was truly in despair.

Mark Cameron. Worship Director at Ps & Gs, and talented guitarist and singer. I had the pleasure of performing with Mark on Good Friday in March of 2018. Early on, I hitched a ride with him to Glasgow to pick up a guitar of mine that was being repaired. During our brief road trip, it became clear to me how committed and energized he was about music and its role in worship.

John and Fiona Sturrock. John is a barrister and a key figure in the United Kingdom regarding alternative dispute resolution. I met him at Ps & Gs during our first week in Edinburgh. He invited me to attend his mediation seminar where I was to meet people that were not only remarkable, but with whom I was to later become friends. It wasn’t long after I met John that Teresa and I were introduced to his lovely wife, Fiona, who graciously took us into her house and made us feel at home. All the best to you, John and Fiona.

Vanessa and Cameron Conant. Vanessa Conant is the current director of St. Mary’s church in Walthamstow, London, but was the first rector that Teresa and I heard preach at Ps and Gs. Vanessa is the most gifted speaker that I have ever encountered. She and her husband Cameron, who is wonderful professional writer and novelist, make a formidable team. 

Alistair and Rosemary Hector. Teresa and I spent a memorable Christmas at their house. We have so much enjoyed getting to know both of them and to appreciate their intellect, generosity, and artistic abilities.

Catherine Krews. Teresa and I first met Catherine through her direction of the Ps & Gs Christmas choir. It wasn’t long after this that we became aware of what an accomplished double bass player she is.

Julie Taylor, ace fiddle player and and ethnomusicologist that we were able to spend time with during our stay. Another example of the remarkable musicians that contribute to worship services at Ps & Gs.

Carolyn & Sandy Millar. Many, many thanks for the wonderful day that Teresa and I spent at your house!

New College

Deborah Casewell. Gifted thinker and fine person whom we were able to meet early on. I expect that she will achieve great things in her academic career.

Martin Ritchie and Sarah Lane Ritchie. We met Martin at a school outing day in Comrie, it wasn’t too long after this that we were introduced to Sarah. Many thanks to this wonderful couple for their love and friendship. 

Evan and Sam Graber. Another example of the keenly intelligent and interesting people that we met through New College.

Dr Paul Foster, Head of School, New College.  Brilliant, witty, and sparkling conversationalist. I can’t think of a finer person to have headed up New College while we were here.

Dr Allison Jack. Teresa’s primary advisor and occasional therapist. Many thanks to Allison for her steadfast support of Teresa’s doctoral project.

Robert McKay, Servitor, University of Edinburgh, New College. I became friends with Robert about midway during our stay in here. I came to look forward to chatting with him whenever I would walk up to New College, which was fairly often during the course of any given week. We would talk about a range of subjects from how we had spent the previous weekend to good food and wine. Robert and New College go together like a hand in glove. He is a valuable asset to the school. 

Daniel and Rebecca Jackson, our flat mates in Paris. What a remarkable way to cement a friendship. We suffered through historically high temperatures (103 to 104 Fahrenheit) during our first week of stay in the city of light. The remainder of our time together was a peak era in my adult life. I hope that Teresa and I will always be friends with Daniel and Rebecca. Come what may, “we will always have Paris.”

Good friends, good times with Daniel and Rebecca Jackson.

Seth and Rachel Ehorn. Seth was one of the most crucial mentors for Teresa during the two years during that we knew him. Seth and Rachel welcomed us to Edinburgh, took us into their home, and make sure that we were adjusting to our new life in Scotland.

Sean and Megan Adams. Like Seth Ehorn, Sean Adams was born to be a scholar. Although we only knew Sean and Megan only briefly, they both made an impression on us as accomplished and intriguing people.

Adam and Heather Marshall. So glad to have met this wonderful couple towards the end of our stay in Edinburgh. I so much enjoyed my chats with Adam around town over pots of hot tea. Teresa and I delightedly watched their young daughter Heather quickly grow into a toddler.

Paris

In 2014 at 2015, Teresa received a month-long bursary to study French in Paris. After we had spent time visiting museums and other points of interest, I discovered that what I liked most about Paris was just walking around and allowing myself to go wherever my feet wanted to take me. Beyond its raw beauty, what I remember about everyday life there were the burgeoning throngs of people at cafés who casually drank rose wine, smoked cigarettes, and looked professionally bored. It was so hot during the first week of our stay that cafés put out small blue plastic swimming pools that were filled with ice water into which the Parisian women placed their bare feet to cool down. This tended to show off their well-painted toenails to best advantage. 

French friends

Michel Lelong and Flo. Michel is one of the best Travis-style guitar players that I have ever heard. He and his partner Flo took us into their house in the Loire Valley for a lovely stay during one of our summer months in France.

Sylvie, our Parisian landlady.  Sylvie taught classes and cinema in 16th-century French poetry. A feature of our daily life in the second arrondissement was a saxophone player who performed daily on the street beneath our window. His repertoire was limited to two songs, however – – “Besame Mucho,” and the theme from “The Godfather,” neither of which he knew to completion.